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I do embroidery but I'm hoping to learn how to sew. These are two super old pieces I did during early quarantine, I've been too busy to do any at the moment and it's sad 'cause it's one of my favourites hobbies
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Omg this thread is PERFECT. I have always wanted to express my love for embroidery. >>180520
For this Mothers Day I bought a DIY embroidery compact mirror kit on Etsy to make for my mum. I will post a pic!
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I was just thinking about a thread like this! Bless you anon ily. I’ve only hand sewn and embroidered before but I’ve been looking at embroidery+sewing machines recently. Experienced sewers regarding wearable clothing, how difficult would it be to stitch up something like this? The original material is made of 89% polyester and 11% spandex. This photo best shows the pattern used imo and it looks simple enough. Am I unknowingly stepping into a world of headache with this?
This is such a cute idea!
Does anyone know any good resources for making clothes smaller? I lost a bit of weight and had the habit of buying clothes that were too large so I'd like to take some things in but for some reason I'm finding it very hard to find good ways of going about resizing things like pants or dresses (shirts are easy enough).
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read my mind anon!! I so badly want to make my own funky outfits and upcycle old clothes. >Where can I buy a durable, but affordable100 bucks would be awesome but ik sewing machine online? >What can I do for now to hone my sewing skills for clothesmaking while I put money aside for a machine?>What's the best machine that can deal with jeans?
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I just got these heat erasable pens so I can draw my own embroidery designs. I tested them on a piece of fabric, doodled all over it, then blew a hairdryer over it for a few seconds and all the pen marks totally vanished! This is great for embroiders who need a few attempts to get their drawings right.
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Aw fuck yeah, thank you for this thread anon!
I also do a lot of embroidery (love making flowers) and crochet (can only do flat surfaces as of yet but progressing fast!) and some knitting (started learning recently). I know the basics of sewing and operating a machine (practiced a bit on a friend's), so this year i'd love to get into making my own clothes with a sewing machine! Anyone have any good resources that teach basic/advanced pattern-making? Seems like a very valuable skill to have, even when you can copy and combine pre-existing patterns and so many can be found for free online.
>>180623>What can I do for now to hone my sewing skills for clothesmaking while I put money aside for a machine?
I highly recommend doing some small projects, like DIY scrunchies, masks, or tote bags, to practice the skills you use when sewing clothing! Sewing the stitches is probably the easiest part of sewing, honestly: following patterns, pinning pieces, clipping curves, gathering (which is easier by hand imo), hemming, etc etc are all important steps in any project.
>What's the best machine that can deal with jeans?
It's actually not the machine itself, but the type of needle that determines this. The needle in the machine will dull over time and needs to be replaced, but there are different types of needles (such as universal, stretch, quilting, and leather), including denim needles suitable for denim fabric.
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Hey anons, I'm interested in replicating the cape in picrel for a formal look. The patternmaker recommends heavyweight wovens like wool, but I live in a really warm place and don't want to have to wear that, so I'd like to use a heavy or midweight linen instead. Alternatively, I could just use a really flowy, light fabric and go for a completely different effect. What do you guys think? What would look nicer?
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So I wanted to know about the patternmaking too and I've googled around a bit and apparantly this book is really good. Here's a detailed rundown of what's in it and it sounds pretty good: https://www.textileebook.com/2019/04/patternmaking-for-fashion-design.html
I'm still looking for a "free" copy
Samefag, found a scanned copy of the book: https://vk.com/doc278403527_419184950?hash=0d5338faec1daaebe2
Doesn't use metric measurements though, which is unfortunate (for me)
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Samefag, found a good book for patterndrafting in metric measurements. I found an excellent pdf on irc but idk how to share that here.
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anon THANK YOU! this is awesome! i found the fifth edition of the Winifred Aldrich book p. easily, both the books look really good.
i'll think of you every time i make something and it turns out well!>>180793
i second the linen suggestion too, structure is going to give it a clean classy look. however depending on what you want to pair it with, do you think a semi/fully sheer flowy fabric could look good? like on top of a slinky silk dress or something?
(i thought it looked good in my head, so i did some googling, and now i really want picrel in my life lol)
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Cape anon here, thanks for the advice! You're right, that's a gorgeous picrel kek. After mulling it over I agree with both you and the previous anon that linen will work for my intended effect (structured and dramatic), but I think I might give the light, flowy version a try sometime!
On another note, is OP's thread pic bothering the shit out of anyone else? The fact that she's not really sewing anything, plus the thread just… popping loose
Mood Fabrics has a lot of free patterns you can download and print out! https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/category/free-sewing-patterns/
You just have to put in your email to get them.
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I keep putting this project off because I'm so intimidated by it, but I really want to make a proper corset bodysuit. It's for costume purposes, obviously. You can really tell the difference between a well-constructed bodysuit with good boning and a shitty stretch leotard in my opinion. I've made the Yaya Han pattern before with a zipper back and plastic boning, and it just wasn't that flattering on me even after altering it. If anyone has any advice or words of encouragement, I could use it!
Sorry for the late reply! Here are the one's I've saved and plan on making some day.
- Kimono pattern (looks like it'd make a really nice long cardigan)https://elbetextiles.com.au/blogs/news/zero-waste-pattern-making
- Collection of dress patterns (and one shirt)https://www.refinity.eu/uploads/2/1/9/8/21986448/flyers_zerowaste_fr-en-1.pdf
- Dress with gathers on the shouldershttps://www.offsetwarehouse.com/products/zero-waste-dress
- Another dresshttps://www.threadsmagazine.com/2020/04/18/how-to-sew-a-no-waste-dress
- Wide leg pants (this one I'm most excited to try out. The tutorial is in german though so lol)https://seemannsgarn-handmade.de/2019/05/zero-waste-schnittmuster-hose/
- This link has links to various zero waste patterns:http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited/garment-pleating-homage-to-issey-miyake
The above are free. I'm also the type of person who will look at someone's pattern draft and try figure out the measurements and draft a copy up myself (never learned how to properly pattern or use patterns lol) so some links might not be helpful to you if you're looking for patterns to print out and use.
This dress is also SUPER popular and takes up a lot of results when you search for zero pattern dress. https://www.birgittahelmersson.com/collections/pdf-sewing-patterns/products/zero-waste-pdf-pattern-gather-dress
I've been thinking of just purchasing it since it's just a cheap pattern that I'll most likely use over and over again but I also saw a girl do a sew along tutorial so I kind of want to try using her video to figure out the pattern for myself and make it from there lol (vid related)
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sewed this swimming costume almost entirely by hand. one of my fav creations. cant wait for travel rules to be relaxed so i can wear it in a Portuguese plunge pool
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sewed this Miffy dress by hand
yes actually it was a nightmare. i used my sisters seeing machine for the arms and sewing machines DO NOT like this kind of fabric so it constantly skipped large parts of ghe fabric and i had to touch it up by hand. i wish i hadnt gotten so impatient
if i could redo this project i would do it entirely on a machine and find a mode on the machine that is lycra-friendly>>185885
thank u anon!>>185912
thank you! its not raw or unhemmed it just curled up towards the end because i used blanket stitch.
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Does anyone have a pattern or instructional video that is similar to picrel? TIA!
Nta and I agree that it's kinda ugly and outdated
but damn not everyone cares about what's on trend
Yeah, I don't really care about trends, using that as an argument just sounds silly, I just generally wear what I like and what I think flatters me the most.
But this is actually for a costume, so I was thinking of not doing the pouch and maybe use a thicker fabric as well
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This is fairly close, just extend the back and use a light fabric. The pattern comes with several front variations so you could do the plainer style instead of this split(?) type. https://www.etsy.com/listing/648828666/sewing-pattern-womens-tunic-top-pattern
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Good luck anon! I've made three corsets before. They were all Laughing Moon Silverados, but I altered the second corset pattern to be underbust and the third was for someone else.
Maybe it wasn't flattering because the materials weren't sturdy enough to hold their shape? You need to season a corset (break it in like a shoe) before it really develops that nice shape. Also zippers kinda suck for corsets if there's no back lacing because you can't adjust the sizing to compress you at all without it being hard/impossible to put on. My third corset had a front zipper closure and it worked just as well as a busk but it's hard to find correct sizing for zippers :(
"The Basics of Corset Building" by Linda Sparks is really good to read, it helped me a lot. Linda is also the woman behind www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/
I bought my materials from there. I altered the pattern to be more nipped at the waist and less rounded like pic related
Use a ton of pins, I find swim material to be very slippery due to its stretch, Sarah Tyau has a tutorial for simple resizing and
Remy To has one for a bikini style although it is not in english and has no subtitles its easy enough to follow.
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any nonas here into crocheting? i've been learning it recently as a relaxing hobby as well as to get some hand exercise (recovering from an rsi) and i'm loving it so so much. i've been working on a simple wrap in moss stitch (picrel) and it's so relaxing to get in a couple lines before bed each night!
(using a variegated white, baby blue and sage thread for it. i'm looking forward to wearing it so much)
I would say if you can get one cheap and have used one before and will actually use it then yeah definitely
Because you’ll be getting it second hand you wouldn’t have to feel too bad about not using it too often
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I got mine used for $300 Canadian in 2016 and it's very reliable (Janome XG-43D). Usually they have a diagram on the inside on how to thread it, you need tweezers to make it easier. They all thread up mostly the same. Basic tension for the dials on most fabrics is 4/4/4/4. Buy serger needles (I use Janome ballpoint needles size 11, 15x1sp but you should check what your machine will need). Also, just like a sewing machine you need to clean out the fluff inside with a brush. It also might need oiling depending on the model. Some are made so that you don't have to.
Don't forget you can always contact the manufacturer or the shop you got it from to help you. I test the tension on scraps to make sure it's normal using pic related. Save it for your reference and good luck nonnie
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How badly will I fuck up if I just start draping directly onto a mannequin? Can you make a whole dress this way? I can follow a pattern but I'm not comfortable making adjustments to the design of them, and I feel like I might get closer to what I want if I just went for it and made a toile. Picrel, I want an Ossie Clark style dress
Why not purchase a book on draping for beginners and do the exercises from it before taking on an intermediate project like this? I learned flat patternmaking first and may not be much help in the way of starting with drape, but patternmaking isn't really a skill you can easily wing lol
Also, when you drape you may have to do some flat patternmaking as well. Draping sleeves requires an arm attachment for your dressform, and is still wildly easier with flat pm. However, don't get dejected. A lot of people who begin with drape find it helps them start to understand flat pm and vice versa. Why not try out an exercise following a youtube tutorial?
I learned drape with "Draping for Apparel Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.
For flat pm I first learned with "Principles of Flat Pattern Design" by Nora M. MacDonald. Just to let you know, you can buy older editions if they're cheaper. There's nothing wrong with them.
(P.S. Vogue V9076 is a similar pattern to your pic)
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What RTW/high fashion brands do you guys look to for sewing inspiration/your next project? I save a lot of looks by Temperley London because they're tailoring goals (and I also like their dresses), but I'd really love to hear what others look at, especially if they're a little more wearable for everyday.
Thanks nonnelle, I was getting way ahead of myself. The shirt idea is really good, there's a lot of fancy shirts out there that will make a good dress. I looked up some sleeve adjusting and skirt drafting tutorials.>>194945
This is all gold, thank you. I did see that Vogue pattern but it was out of stock near me, I'm going to order it when it's in. I am going to find patternmaking exercises, I can't really ignore the fundamentals.
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Absolute embroidery madwomen.
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Might try making pic rel, (2 and 3) even though I barely know how to use a sewing machine
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Oh! I am going to make this exact pattern too soon!>>197081Oof
I hate PDF patterns so much
they are the bane of my existence. I hate how much paper it uses and using up my printer ink even if I use greyscale and toner saving mode and fast mode. I will never buy pdf patterns again if I can help it.
However, I figure because I bought a bunch of pdf patterns on sale (and some cute patterns I’ve wanted are from indie companies who only sell pdfs) what I’m going to do is put the pdfs on a usb drive and go to a print shop or library or something and print it there because it’s cheaper.
But if I can help it: never again
Also, thanks for the site! I love it omg! I don’t even care that it’s pdfs! Gah!
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First time sewing with a stretch twin needle today and I broke two (one 4mm and one 2.5mm). What am I doing wrong? I threaded and re-threaded my machine exactly as a youtube video instructed for my specific machine, even reassembled the bobbin compartment underneath. Anyone have any advice? For specifics: I have a Singer 3223 and was trying to sew a rib knit fabric with tension set to 3, while playing with stitch lengths 2.5 and 3mm.
I saw that mentioned in my google searches. Wasn't sure if it was the root problem because I did the tension test where you hold it by the thread and dip it like a yoyo and it seemed fine. Might be ok to experiment though. Thanks for the suggestion nonnie
I’ve had bobbin tension problems that I only discovered when the bobbin thread on the finished garment started snapping because it was too tight! It’s a much more subtle problem than top thread tension. Definitely play around and see if that helps.
What kind of needle break was it? IE, did it remain on the thread, did it go flying off into space, did it bend first, etc?
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Hey there nonnies!
I've been sewing doll clothes for a little while now, I'd still consider myself a noobie but I've sewn simple dresses, skirts, tshirts, sweaters and pants. I really wanna do something a little more complex and I really liked this design, but I don't even know how to start. Any ideas? How do I do this shirring effect? Do I use an elastic band? Is it done like a frill for the whole top? I just need a little guidance.
Thanks in advance!
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Let's be controversial, nonnies. What's a popular pattern (commercial or indie) you see all the time and absolutely hate? For me I get what the Zadie Jumpsuit is going for but sometimes I just have to hatescroll its tag because it never seems to look good on anyone
. It literally reminds me of when Ariel had just gotten legs and covered herself with an old sailboat sheet. Makes thin women look frumpy and larger women look like they can't find anything that actually fits/flatters.>>199293
I don't sew for dolls, but my friend does, and I researched about it with her for a bit. You just used elastic thread like you would for a human-sized shirred top. Hope someone else here can give you more detailed advice. Good luck anon!
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I recently rediscovered this cow print cotton fabric that I bought and promptly forgot about. I have about two yards of it. I'm thinking about making a simple A-line miniskirt, or maybe a pinafore with a short skirt. What do we think?
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Bought 2m of this cantaloupe-colored yarn-dyed cotton with the plan to sew a simple buttoned blouse, but now I'm feeling experimental. Any suggestions anons? I'm open to tops, dress, and bottoms, though I don't really wear ultra feminine stuff like bows or frills.
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This might be a dumb question, but can anyone tell me how a mockup is used? I know it's just making a version of your pattern in undesirable fabric to test the fit and make changes, but what do you do with it after you make it and alter it? For example, if I needed to take in the waist on my mockup, what would I do to my final product? Would I take the mockup apart and then use the altered mockup pieces as my new pattern?
no questions are dumb questions anon!
generally speaking, if you make alterations to a fabric mockup it's good form to copy said alteration to your paper pattern. You could use your disassembled mockup as a pattern but I find it more precise to use net patterns (no s/a) and add seam allowances when i cut. As for what to do with finished mockups - if it's a big piece like a long skirt, the panels can be re-used to cut out smaller pieces for other mockups or draping something on the stand. I also use old mockups to practice new handsewing techniques or mess around with my machine settings, particularly if the pieces are too small to be re-used elsewhere. Hope this helped!
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I recently found this girl on instagram, and she posted the pattern for these pants for sale if any anons are interested. I'm thinking of buying her patterns soon, they look easy to make and I love the simple look of them!
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I've been pushing that project for literal years lmao
But when I finally do it, I think I'm doing something like picrel
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I want to dupe this coat with a Lekala pattern, I don't want to make big pattern alterations, besides making it oversized in the arms and longer length I think this will work https://www.lekala.co/catalog/women/jackets/pattern/2289#model
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The pattern flat looks right to me but I'm not an expert
The style lines are similar, but if you wanted to replicate >>209346
exactly then you'd probably need to widen the shoulder seam to create that cute slouchy, relaxed fit in your inspiration image. Also, the pattern you chose has a yoke and the inspiration pic doesn't but it seems like a nonissue to me
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I need a jacket/coat for autumn and winter and I just can't find anything that matches my expectations, so I guess, I have to make one myself. I'm a dressmaker, so sewing that thing shouldn't be the problem, constructing the pattern is a another thing (trainee in that subject right now, kek). I thought about something like a military parka with detachable, fluffy wool or cotton lining, as I'm not freezing very often and most jackets are way too warm for my needs. So I could remove the lining when the temperatures are above 5°C and insert it below that.
Has anyone of you some instructions on how to make the pattern for something like this or maybe a pattern where you can see how it works with an detachable lining. Guess if I could see the pieces needed I could come up with something for myself.
there are few jackets that have something like that and I just like the idea. Snaps is a good idea or maybe normal buttons.
I wonder how it works construction wise, my idea is, that I will make the lining fitted and the jacket 2 cm larger, but I'm not sure if that's enough and the right way. Pattern construction is just a very different thing compared to using a pre made pattern.
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does anyone have any links for hand sewing tutorials? I want to make my own clothes and accessories but I don't have a sewing machine. I know how to sew and can embroider. is it even possible to make simple clothes without a machine?
I love hand sewing, it's my favourite part of any sewing project especially as you get better and the stitches look professional. There are only really a handful of stitches you need to know to construct a world of garments. Vidrel is a decent start.
If you just want to make clothes, get a second hand non-computerized sewing machine. But if you want to hand sew as a craft in itself, it's so beautiful and rewarding,even if you do small things like alterations, you'll be amazed how strong and clever these stitches are.
Anon is likely referring to the anti-milk thread over in /ot/ where some anons said they liked her and another had a full on meltdown over it, referring to her as geriatric and a liar, etc.>>210912
No one. Nonita just can't think for herself or realize that even "controversial" content creators can make useful tutorials from time to time, such as Michelle Phan. Her early vids were great for absolute newbies to makeup even if her recent videos are clickbaity and devoid of the same care and magic.
Well that sucks, it seemed like such a nice and relaxing hobby.>>210957>advocation for corsets based on the fact that she wore a medical corset for many years
That really bothers me too, it's just not the same thing. Karolina Żebrowska also goes on about corsets being great while totally ignoring all the women in the 1800s who wanted to get rid of them.
Also does Bernadette have an ED, she looks scarily thin sometimes.
it is for the most part but if you want to share your creations or even look at other people's expect to be bombarded with social justice tripe. Like >>210957
said, a lot of them tend to insert their own politics into pretty dress content which is really irksome imo
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Have any farmers had experience repairing old lace? I want to start buying dresses from the 30-40s and altering/refurbishing them to wear out. I bought this one for super cheap and it’s beautiful but the lace has a lot of holes like this one. I made a thread on Reddit but because it’s not a home sewer mommy project or vintage wedding dress restore it’s not really getting any traction
The only thing that comes to mind would be trying to mend it by connecting the tiny tiny individual threads somehow with newer similar thread to sort of reinforce it, as if carefully trying to mend something knitted that has a hole in it. Got no idea if the beautiful pattern of the lace is fully reparable though. You could also try to use miniscule patches of similar lace to fill in the holes, and try to connect the edges to the old one. It does carry a risk of looking… patchy in the end though.
Agh, I'd struggle with this one too. I guess your method would vary by how absolutely precise you want to be with restoring it. A more experienced seamstress with more knowledge on restoring might disagree with my ideas though.
Have you tried contacting anyone who could help you expand your knowledge on how to restore garments like these, or at least explain what's up? You might want to look for hobbyists that are specifically into this sort of stuff instead of just general sewing projects.
If it’s very fragile, replacing the lace is better.
Sometimes starting a repair rips more fabric.
But if it’s mostly ok, this is a basic mend to stop it getting worse.
ayrt and I really wish I hadn't gotten instagram to lurk their profiles. Youtube comments are usually safe though! The creators you listed are usually drama-free but Enchanted Rose Costumes was recently cancelled for comparing vaccine mandates to holocaust tattoos.>>212032
as a vintage collector this hurts my heart, hope you get that repaired ok anon! If you need any tips for acquiring wounded bird pieces to mend and wear for cheap, check out ebay. Got a few great deals off there for both garments and vintage sewing notions and trim to make my garments as authentic as possible.
Fucking kek. God bless nonny
were in Europe are you based? I'm at school right now to become a "pattern maker" (don't know the real English term) and two known companies in Germany for dress forms are "Berliner Büstenfabrik" and "Spur Dressform". I also found "Royal Dress Forms" online, I like the idea of rather soft dress forms for corsets and stuff like that. Other brands I can think of are Stockman and Kennett & Lindsell, for non German stuff. I don't have much money at the moment and I think about making myself one of those https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern.html
What you have to think about is that many dress forms are for rather "short" women and if you study fashion design you would probably go for women taller than 1,68 m.
For your mental health, I don't have any real ideas, I'm struggling myself right now. I love what I'm doing but I feel so tired and out of ideas. Maybe just make a basic pattern for a skirt and create some fun stuff out of it.
Have whipped up a bootstrap dress form myself and it was really easy to put together. The shoulders did come out a little funky though but I think that's an error on my part with how I stuffed it, but I made little shoulder pads out of scrap cotton canvas and those seem to have done the trick filling the space in. It cinches down fairly well with my 1890s corset but it wrinkles in the back a little when you tighten it. Nothing a bit of steam can't sort out but if you're a perfectionist you might be bothered by it>>213984
seamstresses with legendary auras, thanks nonnie
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How would I go about sewing a blouse with sleeves like this? I'm having trouble imagining what the pattern will look like. What are they called?
Straight and zigzag stitch, automatic buttonhole option, easy to thread, haven’t had any trouble with the timing belt in three years of frankly abusing the machine, and with the right needles you can sew a big range of fabric weights. Like, from chiffon to layers of cotton duck. Decent throat size unless you want to quilt. It’s cheap and reliable and most sewing machine repair shops know them really well so it’s easy to get repaired if needed.
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It should work if you make a normal puff sleeve. Divide the sleeve into parts, cut them apart and put space between them. You can experiment with how many parts and how much space between the parts you need to get the same result as in the picture. After that you will have to find a new seam line where the middle part of the sleeve will be sewn to the lower part. Something like shown in the picture. That will make the fabric fall over the seam and should get you that puffy look.
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Can someone recommend patterns for garments that aren't…. this? Almost everything looks like a stiff paper bag, or it's another wrap dress. What gives? Am I missing something?
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I found this cross stitch pattern guide from a used bookseller on amazon and I'm super excited to get it! It's kind of hard to find any info on it because it's from the 70s, but it appears the finished design is 14 in x 14 in or 15 x 15, so it's quite large and intended for a pillow. I'm thinking it would look cool on the back of a jacket or a tote bag, though. I would love some ideas about what else I could do with it.
Ahh, this is so cool. I don't know how to do any needle work but this makes me feel pretty interested to look into it.
I like your ideas of a tote bag, jacket. It would also just look cool framed and hung on the wall!
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Can someone clue me in on the fabric that’s used for the black far left top? I think it’s a kind of yarn but it looks more “tight”.
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Hi embroidoids, >>213984
Here’s a pattern made from one of Elaine Reichel’s samplers. More of her embroidery pieces: http://elainereichek.com/Project_Pages/8_WhenThisYou/WhenThisYouSee.htm>>229135
There was one left on Amazon so I got it and will scan when received!
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Colors approximate ofc
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Sorry about the watermark, here’s the captive corn
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Cover and general instructions
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I bought this coat. Didn’t realise at first that it was a Tall and that the model in picrel is 5’10. I am 5’6 so this will be a problem. Any way I can hem it?
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Here is an article on blind hems as I think the coat doesn't have a visible hem. Let the coat hang for 24hrs and measure the new length of the sleeves and the coat. best thing to do is to make two lines one for the new length of the coat when folded as a hem and other as a marker on cutting the excess fabric. For the lining you can sew that over the folded hem of the coat.https://blog.megannielsen.com/2013/03/tutorial-hand-sewn-hems/
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First you have to know how much shorter the coat has to be, then I would open the seam between lining and outer fabric at the bottom of the coat and have a look how they made it. After that I would shorten both lining and outer fabric according to the length you need, don't forget the seam allowance. The outer fabric is folded into the coat, so the lining can fold over the outer fabric inside the coat. It's constructed like the example in the picture, to give you place to move (sry, can't find the right words today). If you have a sewing machine, you can turn everything on the left and sew it, leave a hole, turn it back on the right and close the rest with the catch stitch.
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Not sure if this should go in fashion or sewing, but I saw this rainbow cotton at Joann's and I'm kind of obsessed with it, particularly the one with the black background. I also have a pattern for a cami dress, McCall's M8209, that I have been meaning to try out. I wonder if the print would make a cool dress? I could do it all over or half pattern-half solid black like the pattern shows. Wondering if this would be cute or too loud and tacky.
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I think you should go for it anon, it sounds cute! The pattern is quite large and simple so it shouldn't melt the eyes like a more intricate pattern might. I think the half black and half rainbow idea sounds really nice, it could maybe kind of show the pattern off a little more and make more of a statement. I can't put it into words very well so I hope what I'm saying makes sense!
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Is there anything like z-library or libgen for sewing patterns? I feel like all of the patterns I like are kind of expensive for a poorfag like me.
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I'm new to cross stitch, but I think it would be a cool idea to put this design on a round canvas bag that I found on amazon to make a custom bag for myself. I'm wondering if it would be easier to stitch it onto aida and then sew it onto the bag like a giant patch, or if I should stitch it directly onto the bag using waste cloth. The only difference I can think of is whether the design will be slightly raised off the bag or right on the surface of it, if that makes sense. Also, if I was using waste cloth, I'm not entirely sure how I would get the bag's face into a hoop but I guess I'd just have to try my best. Can any anons give me some advice on this?
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I've been embroidering for a while but I still can't get some techniques right. I hope I'll be able to embroider some of my clothes without fucking it up one day! Here is one of my latest works.
I found this video quite helpful https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6p8rpyj3y5Q
if I would make such a project, I would stitch it onto the canvas bag, using fusible interlining and a lining for the bag, so it's stable and won't get damaged when I put stuff inside the bag.
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Nonnies I need advice. I've had a Brother sewing machine for a decade now but I've never ventured into actually making a garment. I've only done minor clothing adjustments, fixed tears and holes, things like that. But I've always wanted to be able to make clothes for me, sadly I cannot afford proper classes with a seamstress. Do any of you know of maybe a youtube series of "sewing 101" that's reputable? maybe even a blog, anything that could help me get the basics right and expand on the little knowledge I have. My ultimate goals are solely be able to make a maxi coat, a flared skirt and a sundress. If possible maybe even a bonnet.
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do you guys have a favorite machine? or maybe a dream/ultimate goals machine? I really love the Singer Rocketeer (picrel) from the 1950's. it looks like a beautiful classic car.
I'm saving up for a Janome HD 3000 BE in black, as well. I'm so sick of fighting with cheapy machines. the woman who runs the sewing lab in my hometown had me sit down and sew through like 5 layers of denim with the Janomeand it sewed through like butter. it felt so secure compared to the plastic, computerized machines I've been using for years. I love that the Jenome HD 3000 is fully mechanical so I can learn to repair and maintain it. manifesting!!
show me your favorite machines nonnies! it can be your current machine too, of course! and if anyone is comfortable enough, pics of your craft spaces/sewing rooms would be cool, but totally understandable if anons don't want to post their personal spaces. I work on a tiny desk built into my apartment, but I used to have a gull fledged crafting space that I was proud of
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Embroideryanons, can I hand embroider straight onto a garment like pic rel? I have a green knit ribbed sweater I got for pretty cheap, I want to add something to make more interesting. Should I even use a hoop for this or will it stretch and distort the fabric? And what about the back?
Make sure the garment is hefty enough to support whatever you want to embroider on it. If the fabric is too flimsy it won't support your designs! Also I think you need to use some kind of stabilizer on the back of the fabric. Good luck!>>260242
Omg yesss… manifesting nonna. I was so pumped when I looked the machine up and saw that it came in black. I took it as a sign lol
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Do some of you have any book recommendations, everything around the sewing subject, from pattern construction over fabrics, leather, how to sew, etc? I don't care for the release date, so could be a new book or something that is 100 years old, just something you thing that is really good, interesting and maybe helpful. >>258266
my dream machines would be an industrial sewing machine (a Juki or Brother) for everything, then an industrial overlock and a household sewing machine for zigzag stitches and stuff like that, maybe even an industrial sewing machine for leather. Problem is, no money and no space for all that, got one room with my desk, bed, closet and everything else in it, a sewing machine wouldn't fit anymore.
Are those Janome HD 3000 and 1000 really around $500? Maybe I should see if I can get a look at them somewhere in Germany, a black sewing machine would be very fitting for me, kek.
Industrial sewing machines are a dream to work with. I have an eletronic industrial one and its wonderful.
I found some very interesting pattern books (A tecnica de dei modelli) online and they are packed with information you normally dont find on pattern books, like specific pattern corrections. But i only found them in italian language.
they are, they are reliable and work way smoother and faster than household sewing machines. At my former workplace we had some that were 25 years old and still running.
Very interesting books indeed, had a look at them right now and I guess I should learn Italian. Thank you for the recommendation.
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Does anyone have any good recommendations for wrap dress patterns like picrel? I think this one is so pretty, but I can't help feeling like I could easily make it at home for cheaper than 52$ + shipping from UK. Here's a link to it so you can see other pictures.https://www.disturbia.co.uk/collections/womens-dresses/products/celestial-midi-kimono-dress
nta from before, but kek, I think that's the whole thing behind pattern making, I'm at school for it right now and get to know all the basics, but if the "market" doesn't want high waist jeans, you won't design high waist jeans and if you only need to change the placement for a pocket about 5 cm, then you do it.
As you are designing jeans, has the fabric choice changed? In Germany it seems like people start to prefer fabric without elastane in it, just pure cotton, did you notice that, too, or is that just something going around richer people trying to be woke and safe the environment.
Yes, most brands are running 100% cotton denim nowadays, which is easier to achieve pretty washes in. The company I work for still uses 98/2 stretch denim most of the time though. It’s not as pretty or durable but it boosts true to size ratings pretty substantially.
A big challenge for us in the US has been the trade tariffs & legislation on Chinese sourced cotton (and maybe inflation to some extent?). Cotton is so much more expensive than it was just a few years ago so margins have gotten tighter
thank you all for the information. It's really interesting to see that this seems to be a global trend and not just a European thing. I think that 100% cotton will really be more durable. For the environmental effects it doesn't change a thing as cotton is produced under horrible standards. I wonder why they don't go back to using hemp in general, there are some stores that sell jeans made out of hemp in Germany and those jeans seem to be very durable.
Love that you shared your knowledge, especially as you seldom have the chance to work with people from different countries.
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I found this exact dress at a thrift store today for a really good price (it was like 50 cents for the sale they had today) The rabbit collar was too cute to pass up. However I'm not in love with the cut of the dress on me, it kind of looks like a judges robe kek. What modifications do you think would make this cuter? I'm thinking about adding buttons or trim to it
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What a cute find, nona! If the dress is too rectangular, I would recommend waist darts or other tailoring at the waist area to give it some shape in the body. That way it might look less flowy/robe-like as you put it.
If the sleeves are too large in the arms/wrist, I would also consider playing with the sleeve length! A fitted 3/4 or short sleeve would be very cute.
jeez I didn't expect the hostility. I find it a core skill because even my own clothes I still have to ask my mum to fix for me, hence my wanting to learn, not just to help my partner.
Anyway thanks I guess.
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do you guys have any ideas about using and storing sewing machines? i bought a singer 99k almost a year ago and admitidly i have just left it in my garage because I thought I would use it there, but now my dad is using it for his car and it's also really unplesant in there. I was thinking about getting a sewing cabinet but i don't want anything expensive because i might move across over seas in the next couple of years. i was also thinking about getting a small foldable table too but I still worry about the lack of workspace.
When I'm not using my machine I unplug it and put the dust/carrying cover on with the cords wrapped up neatly in the space inside. I have a large foldable work table (think those ugly cheap grey ones lol) but before that I just sewed on a regular desk and cut large projects out on a freshly cleaned floor. It hurts your neck/back sometimes though so be careful you don't slouch too much and take some breaks to stretch.
You can make a small workspace work with bigger things if you pin your fabric in place so it doesn't shift, fold the excess fabric to be put on a chair or the floor, and cut things out one at a time. Sewing weights can help make sure the fabric doesn't slide off if it's wider/longer than the desk.
As for using your sewing machine, your user guide manual is at the top here: singerco.com.au/support/manuals/
I really recommend reading your guide all the way through and to save it for reference. I also attached a video on how to service it yourself just in case you can't find anyone in your area to do it for you since it is a vintage machine. Happy sewing!
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How do I stop buying prints and patterns when 99% of my wardrobe is solid colors reee
sadly there is a difference between alteration and dress making, I'm a learned dressmaker, only had to alter clothes one time, as you go to other shops for that. People making alterations have tricks to do it fast and cheap and I would like to learn those but not work at an alteration tailor to learn there, kek. Had the hope that there might be a book out there, as I dislike watching videos, but I will have a look at With Wendy.>>270424
it's nice how the moon in that seam fits, kek. If you like patterned fabrics, don't stop buying them or give you a rule, something like "one patterned for ever 10 uni fabrics".
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I work for an alteration place and you learn a lot of new tricks even when you have an extensive sewing rep. I agree with >>270434
building something from the fit and pattern up is very different than altering pre-existing garments.
If you want a book on alterations, don't buy something that advertises making or altering patterns (e.g. "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting") as those books will probably be 90% of what shows up in a search. I looked and found "Mending and Alterations Made Simple: A Complete Guide to Clothes Repair" by Anna de Leo and read the table of contents, it looks pretty good imo. Good luck finding what you need!
alteration in my country is also a job where you have to be very fast and will be paid for how much you can alter in a certain time, so you need to know tricks that a normal dressmaker won't learn.
And thank you, looks like what I've been searching for. I have the "The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting" book and while it's helpful to alter patterns, it has nothing to do with altering already made garments.
I'm with you on this. I have a plaid dress where mistakenly I cut the centre fronts to be matching horizontally, but are off by 1/2" vertically. I don't have enough fabric to re-cut and even though I know horizontal matching is the most important/noticeable it still pisses me off lol it's been sitting in my room for months
I agree with the other nonas - finish it with the intention of improvement and then donate it. You never know who might love it even if it doesn't fit you!
You would need fabric, thread, needles and an embroidery hoop. Thread I like DMC, except for black, black I go for Madeira or Anchor or silk thread. Fabric I would use some basic cotton for the start (if you want to cross stitch, use aida) and hoop I like the beech wood ones from Nurge. For needles you have to try what you prefer, I like working with needles in middle length, but some prefer shorter or longer needles. If you decide that it will your hobby for the future, buy yourself a colour card with real threads from the company you prefer, like that one https://www.dmc.com/de/farbkarte-500-mouline--perle-9004276.html
so you don't have to run to stores for a colour check and you can just buy at the cheapest online store.
I would get some good books (I liked Stitch Encyclopedia Embroidery by Bunka Gakuen, you can find it on Zlibrary) and if you are interested in needle painting try books by Trish Burr. I also found this website https://www.needlenthread.com/
very interesting for material, ideas and questions.
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I need some new shorts but almost all the ones I like have a distressed hem, which I hate. I should be able to hem these, right? I need a heavyweight needle and a slightly heavier thread and my domestic machine should be able to handle it?
If the side seams on the hems are too thick you can hammer them to flatten them out. Fold them in the way you want to sew them and give them a few firm taps to flatten the thick bits so they'll go through the machine easier. Go slow over these parts too, sometimes I hand crank the stitching over them. Levis denim is the worst for thick ass seams lol
If your machine can't handle that you could always serge and topstitch the hem. Also what >>273885
said if they're too short you could bind the inside with a bias bound hem. Then you'd only have to sacrifice 1/4" of length. Here is a good tutorial for it -> https://www.cucicucicoo.com/2017/03/easy-way-to-hem-a-circle-skirt-bias-tape/
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if it's very close to real leather, I would use special leather needles and I'm sorry, I don't know the proper term in English, in Germany we call it needles with a "Schneidspitze" (maybe cutting tip?). It creates a little hole in the leather so the thread can go through it. If the leather isn't that thick, you might try a denim needle, but I really would use the right needles instead of just something you have at home.
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Another silly xstitch pattern a la >>213984
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I got this fabric from the scrap bin at the craft store, I have about 2 yards of it. It's a stretchy knit type of fabric. What would be something cute I could make with this print?
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You could make light sleeping robe, one of those shorter ones. If you do a 3/4 sleeve it would look nice with some soft white lace trim
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I've been thinking about shopping around for a cheap/secondhand serger. I am interested in making more garments for myself for everyday wear, so the finished, serged edge definitely appeals to me. Is a serger worth it, or should I just suck it up and investigate ways to finish my edges nicely on my sewing machine?
Sergers are great if you plan to work with sheer materials or don't want to mess with french seams. I have one and am quite fond of it, but sometimes it's just easier to do french seams instead of preparing my serger for smaller projects. If you get one, re-thread it by knotting your threads and then letting it run until the new thread color is set, re-threading a serger is one of the most annoying things a seamstress can do ime. It takes forever and a single wrong thread placement can break a needle (especially if it's attached to the lower "looper" needles. I have broken so many of those.)
But if you plan to be really hard on your clothes, I'd combine a serged edge and a french seam. I did that for a viking serk and it's sturdy enough to hike in.
Is anyone from you into sewing leather? I would love to learn more about how to use and sew leather, are there any good websites, books, knowledge I could have a look into, maybe with the goal to one day make my own bags?>>289172
buy one, as a professional I can tell you that you will enjoy using it, especially for knitted fabrics like jersey. And don't be afraid of re-threading one, you learn that over time.
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Can't wait to get a new sewing machine!! It's metal! And fully mechanical! AND BLACK!
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I just got mine today! Not all metal or black but I'm still psyched, gonna put it to a test tomorrow with few jeans I gotta hem and finish a shoulder bag whose seams my old machine couldn't handle.
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I use a q-snap frame too, I like them because keeping the work taut is a lot easier than with a hoop. If it slides around maybe you could put some felt (preferably non-coloured so the dye doesn't transfer) in it like picrel to help with that?
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Congrats on your wearing your first dress anon!
You can overcome your nerves by always taking pride in your work! Most people have good things to say and want to see your fun projects. Some historical costuming ladies are snotty/nitpicky about accuracy (even about fabric content, like, come on) but you should just ignore them, if they weren't elitist about this they'd just go do it about something else. Who is anyone to tell you how to enjoy your hobby?
Do you have a favourite era? Mine is Edwardian. I made a more simple Edwardian outfit a while back, but I made the blouse out of muslin to test the pattern and never made it in a nicer fabric lol
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Making jackets sounds so nice for the coming season, be sure to share how it's going!!
I made the patterns lol the skirt was a basic pleated one that I sewed and draped on a dressform, the blouse I made from a photo that I no longer have. It looked similar to this one though. For the lace inserts I just did seams, no lace. The pintucks were enough for one project lmao.
One day I want to make an s-bend corset and a full tea gown though, I've only ever made corsets using the Laughing Moon Mercantile Silverado pattern. It's pretty good but I had to nip in the waist more, it's very curved/smooth on the sides.
I want to learn how to make amazing looking stuffed animals, haven't gotten very far with it, but one day I will, kek. >>295304
nta, but honestly, if we could go back to the victorian fashion, everything with nice fabrics, corsets, etc, I would. I watched "The House That Screamed" some weeks ago and a fashion style like that would be amazing. So, please, wear that blouse with a long skirt, I would love to see people dressed like that instead of another girl/woman with a croptop and leggings.
Very pretty anon, I did lace insertion on my combinations! I made them entirely by hand a couple of years ago after getting into Bernadette Banner's content. Seems like a rite of passage in this niche little hobby of ours kek
If you want to make more curvy corsets, I recommend sticking to sources that are pretty close to the originals - I made one from the Symington Collection ca. 1894-ish and it has a beautiful shape. I've also had luck with Atelier Sylphe patterns although I still struggle with making alterations to edwardian patterns. If you feel like a challenge, this lady has digitised every adult corset pattern from Dutch fashion magazine De Gracieuse from the late 1860s-1920s. I got my jacket patterns from the period magazine!
Corset patterns link, if you're interested: http://www.clusterfrock.com/p/de-gracieuse-corset-patterns-page-1.html?fbclid=IwAR1Rc0IYkGPsUeKAsfZLyQGrwhfDcWwx4xj4-MzyZdp1p2mjRxj52BtjuUA
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I'm fairly inexperienced with my serger (it intimidated me so I kept it in my closet for 2 years kek). Trying to blind hem my many many black t-shirts that need shortening & I've been practicing with scraps bc I'm terrified to ruin my shirts, anyways, it's very difficult for me to see the folded edge of the fabric when it is passing under the needle (pic 1). Obviously the guide (white plastic piece to the left) is used for that purpose but there is so little room to see the fabric directly under the needle that it makes me a little nervous. The amount of edge for the thread to "bite" is sooo tiny in order to get the blind hem to lie flat when turned right side out (see pics for examples).
Anyways do you nonnies have any advice for me? The edge guide mentioned above seems flimsy? loose? enough that I feel like the fold can easily slide under it and makes it useless. Do I just need to practice more? I really really don't want to fuck up my shirts!
Sorry if pics are huge… lol
Samefag, white piece to the RIGHT*
Also pls no judge for the cat fur (aka cat sparkles)
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I have this blouse which I really like but it's too long and wide for me and makes me look bulky. I was thinking of adding some shirring to make it fit me better. Would something like picrel be possible to do for an amateur? I think it'd look good with a flared empire waist like that.
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I've mostly used industrial machines for sewing but am looking to get a nice, sturdy home machine finally. Any recommends, I live in Europe and do have some shops I can go to order or buy a machine but I wanna hear your actual opinions first nonas! I'd mostly use it for basic clothes repairs, I don't really care for any fancy settings. >>295402
For me, just using machines as much as you can makes you develop a touch for it, unless the white thingy is absolutely loose and wiggly, I think you just gotta get that touch with time. Cute nails btw
Do you have a sewing machine? Sewing some flat elastic on by machine is pretty easy but I’ve never done it by hand. I imagine it’s tricky to keep the tension even, though it should be doable.
And does the blouse fit well in the shoulders and arm area? Because if it’s baggy in those areas as well then it probably won’t look right. The elastic over the bust in particular is going to pull the armscye towards the middle of the bust if there’s too much ease there.
You can totally do it, it will just take ages. It’s a good way to see if you enjoy the general vibe of sewing and making your own things though, before making the investment of a sewing machine.
Start with something simple so that you don’t overwhelm yourself too badly and give up. Skirts and tank tops can be done pretty simply and effectively. They’ll still take a looooong time but it can be a mindful process!
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I bought my first machine off Craigslist. A 1941 Singer, first electric model. The model number is 201-2. Bought her for $80 mounted in a cabinet, woman was selling off all her mom's stuff and had no idea what the machine was worth. Great starter machine as they're virtually indestructible so long as you find one that has been fairly well cared for… as in not left outside or in a humid environment. Only a straight stitch, but I make a lot of vintage/period pieces anyhow. If you search your area, you can usually find a proper sewing machine repair service with someone who knows their shit. Highly recommend reaching out to one if you find a vintage machine. I named my machine Audrey. Still trying to find one of the pic related beauties. Got one once upon a time but the poor girl was rusted through.
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where can I get gobelin fabric like pic related, (or some similar heavy textured fabric) to sew with? nothing polyester - the description of the dress says it's gobelin cotton but I can't find anything similar online
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thank you for all the info nona. I found what appears to be gobelin or some other similar heavy woven cotton fabric for sale, pic related, but I want to make a lolita op with it and still debating if this print would look good or not. the only other gobelin fabrics I found were half polyester or were only being sold in small squares so I guess this one is my best option
the only thing I can think about would be the seam allowance. If the side seams have more than 1 cm seam allowance you could open the coat at bust height and let the seams out and maybe get 2 to 4 cm of extra space. Sometimes you also have a seam in the middle of your back and you could make it wider their. Sometimes you have darts around the bust area where extra fabric could be hidden and you could open the darts and make them smaller. Important would be, that you sew nice curves, no harsh corners and stuff like that.
You also have to be careful around the armholes, you wouldn't want to make them bigger or else you would have to adjust the sleeves as well. If the coat has a lining, you might have to make that bigger as well.
And sorry, I don't have any tutorials at hand, can only find stuff about making a coat smaller.
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I bought a sewing machine for myself for christmas and i'm really excited to start learning! I decided to start because I love vintage (especially 60's mod) fashion, it was also a culmination of my frustration that I couldn't find a plain black mini skirt that was cute and reasonably priced… I have my black skirt now! I eventually want to recreate picrel, liza is honestly 40% of my motivation
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I'm a sewing newb.. how do I best repair a garment with a pattern sorta like picrel? It has a couple of spots where the threads have broken and they're starting to become tiny holes but not quite yet if that makes sense. I'm not sure how to repair it while disrupting the pattern as little as possible? I have more of the same fabric to repair it with if needed be.
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Hi I have two questions: what is this type of skirt called so I can find patters for it? And would this kind of skirt be too complicated for a beginner? It looks simple but I'm scared that I might bite off more than I can chew lol
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saw this and snorted out loud
also i got a plushie making book for christmas and can't wait to make one in the new year, once i get some supplies
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Any anons itt have websites used to archive sewing patterns from vintage sets? I only found one pattern for a vintage gram carebear through a bidding site but haven’t found any for the others.
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I bought this on sale, I guess it's for little kids but I just wanted a basic one and this one was cheap. For my first project I will be altering a dress I have!
vintage patterns are just hard to come by as most weren't made on a computers like today. It's sad, I love old patterns, especially as it's my job and if I had the resources and time, I would digitise them for everyone, kek>>309604
maybe this might help a little bithttps://www.mlptp.net/index.php?threads/i-just-got-a-butterick-mlp-pattern-now-what.101490/
you could use the pictures, trace them in something like inkscape and then print the pattern as big as you like
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how hard would it be for a complete noob to alter an existing pattern a bit to fit me (one from otome no sewing for example), design a custom printed fabric that has a border print, and make a lolita dress? I also can't seem to find any good info on what size canvas to use for designing the print, how to make it repeat smoothly, just the general print design process and how to sew a border print so that it doesn't look broken up/choppy. I want to make something like pic related, or maybe even a skirt without the bodice if a jsk is too hard for beginners. would any of this be doable?
it's all in japanese I thought, which might make following along a bit tricky. but it's good that's included, maybe google translate will be enough to make sense of it >>312209
yeah I definitely won't use the printed fabric until I know what I'm doing, using old bedsheets is a good idea since I can find some at a thrift shop for cheap I'm sure
I'm the same, I want to make my own clothes and I'm very much capable of it (like I know how to sew and make patterns, etc), but I've gained weight and I want to wait until I've lost some of it. For me it's just that I don't want to spend the time and money on making something that I might only be able to wear for a short while.
Every pattern you find can be adjusted to your body type, if you understand the basics of pattern construction you can do it yourself. When you start making your own clothes, you might want to add more seam allowance to everything, so you can alter them later on, most dressmakers do it, like 3 cm seam allowance in the back of your trousers so you can gain a little weight later on. You should have a look at some books about pattern construction and from there you can start to understand bought patterns and where you need to change things so it fits. I recommend making a mock-up if you alter things before you use the expensive fabric.
For dress forms, maybe have a look at this one https://patterns.bootstrapfashion.com/diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern/exclusive-diy-dress-form-sewing-pattern-and-a-complete-step-by-step-sewing-photo-guide-2553.html
I think modifying an exciting dress form won't bring the same results as one that fits your measurements.
You're just delaying gaining skills and experience to make really cool stuff you genuinely love. So you could look at it this way: I'm not at my desired weight right now but I'm going to use this time to develop my skills so I can sew nice stuff by time I am at my desired weight.
Realistically you probably won't even want to take in most of your beginner clothes.
thats a great point, im a beginner and my first projects will likely be rough. i like that first draft mentality a lot!
and if i dont lose the weight, whatever. at least i can make things that fit my shape, no matter what that shape is. >>321472
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In my experience, clothes that fit will significantly improve your looks at any size. Even just tailoring some basics to fit your current shape for practice is a great way to get acquainted with a lot of techniques, and you aren't making a whole garment start-to-finish.
Lately, I've really enjoyed turning some of my unflattering, oversize tshirts into cute fitted baby tees to give them new life.
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sewing noob trying to figure out this pattern - does it only include the bodice plus sleeves and not the skirt? I think I can tell which are the bodice pieces and sleeves but what are all the rectangle pieces on the bottom - the skirt? frills?
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samefag here is what the dress is supposed to look like completed. from gosu rori volume 8
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As far as I see it (and I know nothing about lolita fashion), it's the complete pattern. I also found the whole magazine here https://chochololita.livejournal.com/1982.html
and the rectangular things seem to be the skirt and trimmings. If you need that dress for an event, start early, it's a lot to sew for a beginner and having enough time will make it more fun.
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Every time I use picrel to hem a regular jersey t-shirt, it stretches out the hemline ever so slightly. You have to apply pressure with the iron in order to bind the material with the melted adhesive, and that's enough to stretch my shirts out. The instructions say not to use steam but wouldn't that help with heat conduction? I'm wondering if maybe I should just heat the adhesive by hovering the iron over it and gently press it together with my fingers. That"s obviously still putting pressure on the fibers but I can be more gentle? Idk.. halp please (Side note/blog but I I am sooooooo fucking tired of trying to figure out how to hem my t-shirts without wanting to off myself. I literally had to walk away from sewing for the past few years because nothing I was trying would ever work and I was literally getting rageful. And I've been sewing for like 15 years. I hate this so much nonnas. I need to take apart/reassemble my sewing machine bc I had to adjust the timing of the bobbin shuttle but I messed up the disc that is connected to the knob which chooses different stitch patterns. I just want to turn the fucking thing on and sew without issues, for fucking once! Agh see I'm getting triggered just talking about it!)
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Jersey fabric can be annoying to handle. It's not easy to hem or interface them, as they will stretch, because they are knitted and not woven like normal fabric. I never used interfacing to hem a jersey t-shirt before, only for the should seams so they won't stretch out over time. I'm not familiar with the product you use, I would use this one https://www.vlieseline.com/Produkte/Buegeleinlagen/H-609
as it doesn't stretch much, if you really want to use interfacing for the hem on a t-shirt. Important is, that you pull the interfacing a little bit while applying, just a little bit, so it will snap back in place afterwards. You have to use the right amount of heat for the right amount of time and afterwards you have to let it completely cool down before taking the next step. I don't know what machines you have, but for jersey hems you normally use a cover stitch, like picrel, so maybe you want to invest into another machine so you have fun sewing jersey again. What also helps a lot and what we did before cover stitching the hem, is basting it, so it won't slip while it's under the machine.
I hope what I wrote makes sense as I'm bad at English today, kek. I've been sewing a lot of jersey shirts at my former workplace and that's just how we did it, no interfacing, basting and cover stitch for the hem.
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Thank you for your reply sweet nonna. Your english is perfect. Did you do any ironing/pressing before sewing the hems at your old job? Thanks for the tip to ever so slightly stretch the interfacing as I apply it. That's a great idea. It won't work with the product I mentioned but I'll definitely be filing that tip away for future reference. Funny you mention a coverstitch machine- I want one so bad but right now I can't justify the cost since I can technically achieve something very similar using my serger and/or sewing machine. Maybe one day… I was honestly just using the HeatnBond because I was so fed up with trying to hem the t-shirts using my machine, but I 100% forgot that walking foots (feet? foots?) exist, and I think it may solve the issues I was having, along with the fact that I fixed the timing of my needle and I fixed the bobbin shuttle. Please pray for me and all of my beloved t-shirts.
Also! I'm getting my first Janome sewing machine and I'm so excited! The body is aluminum and it's black! I kinda wish all the components were metal but I'm not brave enough to sink money into buying a vintage machine (yet) since it may require repairs. I'm happy because I can buy a service manual for the Janome and learn to properly service it myself.
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I went the older sewing machine route from fb marketplace. Found a singer 15-91, just needed the old grease cleaned out, replaced, and works perfectly. It was about 140-150 altogether. If you decide to pick up a metal machine, the parts are out there, ytube has some good tutorials on cleaning/servicing/using, and sometimes thrift stores or antique stores have the replacement parts for stupid cheap. I love mine. It’s beginner friendly as all get out.
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I was looking into buying an old Kenmore off of Craigslist and I was shocked to see that a lot of the parts for this 60-year-old machine were still for sale from the manufacturer itself. I also just realized there's a Janome HD3000 and HD5000 but I read that Janome changed the motor output without saying anything in machines produced after 2018. That got me learning a little bit about sewing machine motor strength and how most new machines are pieces of shit now and I'm even more conflicted. Maybe I should go with the Kenmore after all
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Thank you for the explanation nonnie
! I made a few mistakes so there's some ugly bits, but the bag feels nice and sturdy.
I'd say it depends on whether you can already sew and whether you have art basics! This is actually only the third thing I've embroidered and the first time I didn't follow a pre-made kit, and my previous attempts were pretty messy (but I didn't know how to sew so I struggled with super basic things like threading my needle). I do draw/paint a lot though, so that makes choosing colours and estimating proportions easier. This project also only uses fairly easy stitches.
If you want to try embroidery out with minimal investment, you could get a kit from etsy/amazon. It'll have instructions for everything and all the tools you need (pre-printed fabric with a design on it, all the embroidery floss etc), so you don't need to think too hard, and if you end up not enjoying it you didn't spend too much money.
sry, I got carried away and therefore my reply is very late. We would iron the hems before sewing them, always watching that we don't stretch them out. Then we would bast them and then coverstitch the hems. Most important thing about jersey is that you don't stretch it while dealing with it. You can iron it smaller and back into its old form with pressure and steam, but we had really amazing ironing boards and most people at home won't have them. If your sewing foot gets stuck or your sewing machine skips stitches, you can attach non-sticking tape to the foot, it really helps with stretchy fabrics. Hope your t-shirts are all hemmed by now and look amazing. >>343724
do you want to make the patterns yourself or not? If not, you will need a sewing machine with the equipment (like different feet, bobbins, needles, etc), hand sewing needles, scissors, chalk (or soap, I prefer soap), measuring tape, steam iron, ironing board, fabric, yarn and interfacing. For fabric, I like to feel the fabric before I buy it and I prefer natural fibres. So, if you buy the fabric online there should be the possibility that you can get a sample (for a low price of for free), if not, I wouldn't buy from those store. It won't be as expensive than high quality clothes but not as cheap as stuff from like Shein, in the end you will have fitting clothes made from fabric you really like, so it's worth making your own clothes.
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I recently moved to US from a country with limited sewing resources. I bought myself a digital sewing machine and went to a Hobby Lobby for the first time and I'm overwhelmed with the amount of tools that exist now to make everything so much easier.
This may sound super silly but this is all new to me.
Could anyone give me a list of essentials that would help so I don't just end up buying a bunch of useless things compulsively? Does anyone know if there's a tool specifically for making the knot at the end of the thread when hand stitching? So fat I got these and they've been a godsend!
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anons do you use thread magic/any thread conditioner, and do you find it effective in any way? I'm asking here as it's used with machine & hand sewing, though my actual use case would be cross stitch. My X's tend to look fuzzy - and no, I'm not using excessive thread length, just forearm length. Wondering if it's worth a try, some people say it does nothing at all. People mention it helps with threading needles and gliding the thread through fabric, but I didn't see much mention about the look of the stich itself in the reviews.
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please don't go for the cheap stuff and buy quality things that will last you years. Prym and Clover have good quality things and I'm happy with most things I've bought from them. Besides what nona >>346617
wrote there are some others things that are good to have. What I always have around is:
- point turner
- magnetic needle cushion
- measuring tape
- Prym chalk marker with exchangeable chalk leads
- sewing gauge (like picrel, not sure if that's the right English word)
- tracing wheel with sharp spikes
- seam ripper
- tailor's awl
- lint roller
- seam marker set
- curve ruler set from Clover
- stuff for ironing, like a tailor's ham for example
I also mostly don't use chalk, as I find tailor's soap more comfortable, because steam will make it disappear and you can make it yourself from leftover soap, kek. And if you want to buy some scissors, get one with micro serration, they are amazing for cutting smooth fabric like satin or lining.
A fast way to knot your thread would be something like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-IbkK9Gpo8
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These nonnas are 100% in their recommendations. I also have a large cutting mat like pic related. Very helpful for measuring certain cuts, rotary cutting and finding the bias. I highly recommend checking facebook marketplace for women unloading their sewing notions, machines, tables etc. as they typically have phenomenal prices. I recently picked up an immaculate Singer 177c for $50.00 and my prized straight stitch machine, a Singer 201-2 for $80.00 years ago. My 201-2 came in her original cabinet as well.
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we had to put our 10 year old french mastiff down due to cancer. i wasnt as close to her as my mother was, and shes taking it much harder. i wanted to purchase her a plush but cannot find a decent one that resembles how she looked and not just the standard Dogue de Bordeaux. plus they are from the uk and im not sure. i figured i could maybe sew one but i cant find any patterns either, and im not that amazing with sewing. are there any resources i can use to make my yown pattern to use? or some hidden one? she looked basically like picrel
sorry for your loss.
i think plushies are very hard, unless you go for total simplicity. while i cant find patterns specific to french mastiffs, maybe you could try blending more than one pattern. for example, you could use a dog body pattern, but use the head of a teddy bear, with an altered nose. that's the only think i could suggest. it would take trial and error. the wrinkles would be very hard to make for a beginner, but you could embroider them on. i don't know what else to suggest, other than not going for total realism.
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Got into making plushies lately. Started with animal ones but I'm a weeb whose goal is to make husbando plushies. I'm pretty satisfied with my latest one (in picrel), but hope to make bigger and better ones.
I don't know what bee paper is but you can get rolls of pattern making paper from the store you buy your fabric from, they're not expensive. I've also used the backside of gift wrapping paper as a substitute when I first started out, not ideal but works.
>flimsy printer paper
Proper pattern making paper is even thinner, a bit translucent. You don't want much thicker because that's more difficult to pin and more expensive. Also bulkier to store if you keep your patterns.
, i myself use semi-translucent parchment paper. it's good enough for patterns, ticker cardstock is fine for basic slopers you'll copy to modify the basic pattern. also thin paper is the best if you copy patterns from a magazine like burda, if you're an eurofag
bee paper is just a specific brand of those rolls of pattern paper sold on amazon, the nearest fabric/craft stores are all quite far away so I can't get materials often.
that's true I wasn't thinking about how it would be more difficult to pin and store thicker paper but I can see how thick paper would make it inconvenient.>>348393>>348395
yeah I had a posterboard/cardstock laying around I was going to use for my first few patterns but after reading the replies maybe it's best I hold off until I have thinner paper.
thanks for the advice nonas. I'll look for a roll of pattern paper next time I make the trek to the fabric store.
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attempting my first sewing project using a pattern from otome no sewing for bloomers (pattern 6) - does anyone know what measurements are shown in the pattern pieces? are they supposed to be in cm?
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samefag I'm also a bit confused what is going on with the lace in this pattern. maybe someone who isn't a noob can understand. what does it want me to do with the lace in the top of the instructions? I don't get how it's supposed to be sewn on.
The top right picture just means that you have to make a ruffle out of the lace with two large stitches, pull the lace together with them until you get the length you need for your pants. This has to been done before you attach the lace to the pants.
Then you have to put the lace on the right side of your pants piece, with the edge of the lace close to the edge of the fabric. You can see the wrong side of the lace. Sew the lace onto the pants part, I think there will be a marked seam allowance in the pattern where you should sew, then use a zigzag stitch for the edges. After that you have to press the seem allowance upwards, it has to look like the lace is behind the fabric, the edge of the lace is hidden and the scallops are coming out from under the fabric. Last step is that you topstitch it, so it can't move around anymore.
I hope you understand what I mean, I tried it with a piece of kitchen paper and it should work like that, kek. If you didn't understand what I tried to explain, just tell me and I will make some pictures as soon as I have time.
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I had some time and made a little walkthrough, kek. In picture 6, please ignore the shadow, it would all be flat if I would have sewn it. This is the way I would sew it according to the pictures you posted. And I don't know if you ever made ruffles, if you did, ignore me, if not, keep on reading. You sew two basting stitches, mostly at around 0,5 cm and 1,2 cm, if the seam allowance is at 1 cm, and than you ruffle it and the basting stitches will stay inside the fabric until you did sew the ruffles were they belong.
And yes, if I'm unsure of how I should make something, I always make a fast mock-up out of kitchen/toilet paper or greaseproof paper (the stuff you would wrap your sandwich in), it's cheap and helps visualise the things you are about to do.